AGTA GTC's Laboratory Update for August 29, 2006
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CIBJO Meets in Vancouver to Address Responsible Business Practices
In July 2006, CIBJO organized its annual World Jewelry Conference in Vancouver, British Columbia. Sometimes referred to as the "United Nations" of the jewelry industry, CIBJO celebrated its 80th anniversary this year as the oldest jewelry and gemstone organization in the world. The organization, composed of representatives from 36 countries worldwide, promotes a mission is to encourage "harmonization, promote international cooperation in the jewelry industry and consider issues of interest to the trade worldwide. Foremost among these is to protect consumer confidence within the industry."
True to this mission, the focus the Vancouver conference was "Consumer Confidence and Cooperate Responsibility," and included both individual and panel presentations addressing the necessity of our industry to collectively address human rights and labor issues, environmentally responsible methods in bringing our products to market and a renewed commitment to ethically sound business practices.
The Congress also marked CIBJO's return to an active role in support of the Council for Responsible Jewelry Practices (CRJP). The CRJP is an international group comprised of organizations, primarily in the gold and diamond sectors, whose stated goal is to develop a secure, transparent and responsible supply chain for jewelry products from the source to the consumer.
AGTA Executive Director Douglas Hucker addressing the recent CIBJO meeting. Photo courtesy of Ya'akov Almor/CIBJO |
Both of these organizations are acutely aware of the growing demand on the part of the consumer for accountability from our industry as to the methods used in bringing fine jewelry to market. Consumer expectations, often fueled by highly visible campaigns by a variety of non-governmental organizations (NGOs) and their growing focus on responsible social and environmental methods have demanded that our industry respond with immediate, sustainable and credible programs to ensure the integrity of our jewelry products. The work of the CRJP and the renewed involvement of CIBJO it this effort is a credit to our industry.
What was especially significant to our organization and to everyone involved in the colored gemstone and cultured pearl industry worldwide were the first tangible steps on behalf of this group of industry leaders to bring the colored gemstone industry more fully into the process. Prior to the Conference, the focus had been almost entirely on the diamond and gold sectors of the jewelry business. Matt Runci, CRJP Chairman of the Board and President/CEO of the Jewelers of America, also heads up the CIBJO Ethics Commission. During the Ethics Commission's meetings in Vancouver, Matt, on behalf of the Commission, invited the representatives of the colored gemstone industry to become actively involved in the process.
As the United States delegate to the CIBJO conference representing the colored gemstone sector as well as AGTA, I confirmed our commitment to this process. Last year, while attending the CIBJO Executive Committee in Milan, I submitted a statement of principles regarding the AGTA's commitment to responsible business practices (see 'Principles to Guide AGTA Membership' below). This statement was unanimously adopted by the AGTA Board of Directors and clearly details our support of these ideals. In the Vancouver meeting, Thomas Lind, the CIBJO delegate from Germany and Industry Rules Co-Chairman of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) also expressed his confidence in the full support of the ICA in this process. Our collective goal is to begin a thorough risk assessment process which will entail a careful review of our industry to asses the likelihood of human rights and labor abuses, the prevalence of environmentally destructive methods of gemstone mining and production, and to scrutinize the transparency of the supply chain for risks of smuggling, money laundering and other procurement abuses. We have tentatively planned a summit meeting in Tucson in February, 2007 to review our progress.
Since its inception, the AGTA has had as its foundation a clear Code of Ethics which governed our business practices. Consumer confidence has been at the core of our efforts. Clearly, our support and direct involvement in this industry-wide effort at ensuring the integrity of our products is the right endeavor at the right time.
AGTA Principles The American Gem Trade Association believes that precious colored gemstones are one of the greatest natural luxury items the world has to offer. With this in mind, we believe it is important that, as AGTA members, we do our part in making these wonderful natural creations rewarding for everyone involved in the supply chain from the mine all the way to the final owner. The areas to focus on are product integrity, ethical distribution, fair labor practices, environmental sustainability and cultural diversity. By thoughtfully addressing these issues in the course of our every day business, we believe we can add greater luxury, beauty and positive emotions for the final owner of one of nature’s greatest creations, natural, precious colored gemstone jewelry. Fair labor practicesIt should be the goal of all AGTA members to sell only gemstones that have been produce using legitimate labor that has been paid a fair wage. All members should be able to provide assurances that no child labor, slave labor or any unfair labor policies have been used to provide the gemstones we provide. We should be able to assure that all labor we use conforms to all local labor laws or requirements where our gems are mined or cut. Mining and cutting facilities should provide a clean, safe and well lit working environment for all of their workers. Equal opportunity for employment and advancement should be offered to all qualified applicants. Environmental practicesAs AGTA members, we strongly encourage mining operations to produce our gemstones using mining methods that are as environmentally sound as possible in accordance with all local laws. Any and all waste material or hazardous substances produced by mining, processing, or cutting should be disposed of in a safe, legal, environmentally sound manner, and in accordance with all local laws. Responsible gem mining
Product integrityAGTA members must be able to assure the integrity of all gemstones they sell. All treatments performed on rough to enhance color or clarity should be documented prior to cutting. All AGTA members are required to disclose all treatments performed to enhance color or clarity of all gems they sell regardless of whether they were treated as rough or as cut gems. All gems that are enhanced by exposure to radiation should be tested to be certain no detectable radioactivity is still present. All gems must be accurately identified and accurately represented in both type and quality when sold. Cultural diversityMuch of the romance of gemstones is directly related to the cultural diversity of peoples and their customs in the exotic regions of our world. The preservation and promotion of all cultural identities from the many regions gems are found worldwide is a benefit to all AGTA members. |
Selling the Internal World – Microscopy as a Gemological Sales Tool
The single most important instrument in gemology today is a properly equipped stereoscopic binocular microscope.
While few jewelers question its importance for diamond grading and gem identification, many resist using the microscope in sales presentations because they feel it will show features they do not want to emphasize or that are somewhat difficult to explain, as for example, various grade-setting inclusions in diamonds.
In our experience, such fears are unfounded. Gazing at a gem through the microscope, most customers are amazed at the relatively insignificant size of inclusions that set diamond grades; they are also typically impressed by the precision of the cutting. Thus the initial response from customers is generally quite positive when offered a chance see significant micro-characteristics with their own eyes.
Adding an air of professionalism
Used properly, the gemological microscope can be a powerful sales tool. It allows you to demonstrate your knowledge of gem materials, personalize a sales presentation of a gem purchase, add dramatic professional appeal to the sale and, in doing so, encourages the customer to arrive at a positive decision regarding a purchase. Jewelers who utilize microscopy during sales presentations find it helps to close more sales than anything else in the store.
Prominent display of a microscope in a jewelry store, in-and-of itself, gives a positive impression of the business and involving the customer instills confidence that no verbal sales presentation can begin to approach. Just the presence of a well-cared-for microscope on the jewelry counter can be a great sales opener, helping to break the ice and start a conversation.
To use the microscope to its greatest advantage, be sure to introduce it early in the sales presentation, regardless of whether it is you or the customer that first brings it up. Remember, the binocular microscope is an impressive instrument, one that creates a positive professional impression just sitting on your counter.
Figure 1. The gemological microscope Pictured above is a gemological microscope with its major accessories, including both flexible and stiff fiber-optic light guides, a polarizing attachment and phototube with digital camera. Such a system forms the foundation of gemology, allowing both identification and documentation. Microscope base courtesy of System Eickhorst. Photo: Richard W. Hughes. |
While most jewelry customers would be unimpressed or even confused if confronted with a refractometer, polariscope, or other gemological tool, the microscope is universally recognized as an instrument of knowledge and learning, often associated with doctors and scientists in various professional fields. The presence of a sophisticated and obviously valuable piece of scientific equipment on your counter lets the customer know that, not only do you have a real commitment to your field, but that you are willing to invest in the professional tools of your trade. For all these reasons its mere presence increases your standing in the eyes of your customers. This translates into customer confidence in you as a professional and, as a direct result, more completed sales for you, and greater satisfaction for your customers.
Not just a prop
If you have invested in a quality gemological microscope and maintain it properly, don't just let it sit on the counter as a display. By all means use it, whenever you can. Imagine the favorable impression made if you are actually using the microscope when a customer enters the store? As you break away to attend to them, they will be immediately curious.
Just using the microscope is a strong non-verbal message of your expertise. It builds confidence in you as both a gemologist and sales person, and gives an excellent immediate impression. The microscope visually demonstrates your skill with the best-known tool of your trade.
By using it to carefully examine your own jewelry, you let the customer see just how concerned you are in selecting your merchandise for sale. And by using the microscope, you convey to the customer that you have nothing to hide, that your diamonds, colored stones and other products can withstand the closest scrutiny.
Be prepared
While selling with the microscope has much to recommend, a few precautions should be observed:
- Be ready to answer all questions about your microscope and its use.
- Always keep your microscope and its lenses clean and ready for use.
- Thoroughly clean any gem from your stock before examination.
- Make sure what your customer sees is what you are trying to show. For example, sometimes a customer might confuse a facet reflection with an identifying feature.
- Always be careful about using the microscope to show gems set in illusion mountings or on any rough-polished mounting such as a brushed finish. This is something you may not want to emphasize, or something that should be verbally explained in advance.
- And finally, be prepared for children. Having a brightly colored crystal or fluid inclusion to show a customer’s child through the microscope can help cinch a sale. This unusual courtesy not only impresses the parents, it helps create future customers.
Figure 2. Pretty in pink Picture a client gazing into the interior of a gestone like this. How could they not become enthralled with such an internal vista? Covellite in quartz from Bahia, Brazil. Photo © John I. Koivula/microWorld of Gems |
Beyond inventory sales
The microscope is not just an inventory sales tool. It can be used at the take-in counter to show customers potential jewelry repairs that might be needed, such as badly worn prongs or a cracked ring shank. The microscope can also be used to show customers the overall wear of an old mounting, leading to the suggestion of a new mounting for their older gems. And showing significant diamond or colored stone characteristics through the microscope can be used to demonstrate how information gained through the microscope is provided on an appraisal, leading to discussion of your appraisal services.
Also remember the microscope is crucial in avoiding potential major problems at the appraisal or repair take-in counter. If the customer believes they have a valuable diamond or natural alexandrite and you observe through your microscope that the "diamond" is doubly refractive and looks like synthetic moissanite, or that the "alexandrite" contains curved striae and gas bubbles, this needs to be immediately pointed out to the customer during take-in.
Summing up
This brief discussion is meant to show how useful and effective a gemological microscope can be as a jewelry store sales tool. Much of this information will not be new, particularly if you are an AGS Certified Gemologist, since more and more professional jewelers these days are using gemological microscopes in their sales presentations. Thus the important question must be asked: If a customer sees a microscope in a competitor’s store, but not yours, what will the impression be?
